Molise: Italy’s tiny and most curious region

Nestled along Italy’s southern Adriatic coastline, the tiny Molise region awaits discovery.

This is the country’s second smallest region and also its youngest, having split from the “Abruzzi” umbrella only in 1963. Why did that occur? Most would say “buh?” and shrug their shoulders….the Italian way of acknowledging that some things are just lost in the mists of time.

Our days together here are designed for community and immersion. You’ll dive deep into the most delicious things happening in Molise and learn how they’re done. Getting your own hands dirty is an option; or just sip some surprisingly tasty local wine and soak it all in. Enjoy insider’s peeks into kitchens, workshops, studios and tasting rooms. We’ve been curating this idea for years and feel that the locals are now ready to receive curious Americans with a sense of adventure.

Our itinerary includes culinary experiences to discover unique recipes that can easily be repeated at home. The week combines hands-on cooking and demonstrations by professionals, together with talks and tastings all around this tiny region. Lively, informative, and fun! Consider yourselves explorers, conquering the secrets behind authentic dishes and the wines – some quite niche — that pair so well.

DAY 1

Transfer from Rome Airport (FCO) to Termoli + Check-in + Welcome Dinner

Early afternoon group pick up in Rome and transfer (3.5 hrs) across the Italian peninsula to Termoli, a town of medieval origin situated on a promontory jutting into the Adriatic Sea. The DNA of Termoli belongs to the sea; your stay will be right in the old town center that was historically home to fishermen.

Passing from Rome’s Lazio region through the lush, green mountains of Molise feels like moving back in time. Often the phone signals drop as you cross the border. Life here is adagio … slowly beautiful.

Home for the next six nights will be Residenza Sveva, a “made in Italy” accommodation in the old town that exemplifies recovery and creativity. The “hotel” comprises rooms scattered about the small historical town center that have been comfortably and stylishly refurbished, allowing a genuine and sustainable stay. The Italian term for this concept is “Albergo Diffuso”.

Settle in and unpack; there will be no baggage drill this week. Welcome drink followed by a multicourse welcome dinner with traditional local food and wine. You’ll meet Chef Massimo and get a thumbnail of the exciting week ahead. D

DAY 2

Borgo Tour + Cooking Class + Lunch + Winery and Dinner

Morning

Residenza Sveva’s restaurant serves as the core of the hotel, and you’ll enjoy a fresh and local breakfast here daily. Today this is followed by a brief private guided walk in the Old Town of Termoli to discover its plethora of “secret places”. After the walk, settle in for a three-course hands-on cooking class. Feast on your creations for lunch.

Afternoon

After some rest in the afternoon, visit a winery near town that masterfully transforms the native Tintilia grape into liquid gold. Produced only in Molise with origins lost in time, the low-yielding grape was for many years abandoned and replaced with the more vigorous Montepulciano. However, Tintilia has recently been rediscovered for its ability to give high quality wines — lending color, fragrance, structure, good acidity and elegant tannins. Tintilia is the perfect complement for Molise’s savory foods from the earth. You’ll try some of those during a pairing dinner at the winery this evening. B,L,D

DAY 3

EVOO Tasting + Lunch + San Martino in Pensilis Village + Dinner

Morning

After breakfast, discover a nearby olive oil estate, owned by an ancient Italian noble family and one of the most enchanting places in the Molise countryside. Here an award-winning Extra Virgin Olive Oil is produced and sold worldwide in the finest specialty shops. Get lost in the 170-acre olive grove, with different cultivars and 18,000 olive trees. At the mill you’ll see how the olives are transformed, from harvest to bottling. Learn to distinguish a great Extra Virgin Olive Oil from a mediocre one. Decide which of the infused oils is your favorite as they are paired with local products.

Afternoon

In the afternoon, visit San Martino in Pensilis, a village rich in history and beautiful churches. It’s also well-known for “Pampanella”, an irresistible Molise street food that features slow-cooked pork seasoned with a mix of fresh hot peppers and dried sweet peppers. Time to rest before enjoying dinner in Termoli. B, snack L, D

DAY 4

Vasto + Trabocco Lunch + Termoli Underground + Apericena

Morning

After breakfast, take a short drive up the coast to the southernmost part of Abruzzo, which until a few decades ago was paired with Molise into a single region. The visit this morning is to Vasto, a hilltop town with views of the entire Adriatic gulf all the way to Termoli and beyond. Relics here date back to 1300 BC and, as a seaside municipality, Vasto flourished under the Roman Empire. You can still see vestiges of Roman baths, a theater, mosaics and marble columns. Take in a couple of the lovely churches, including one with a very tall bell tower, as well as shopping and photo opportunities. You can even learn some local recipes by “reading” the tiles on the side of the central market building.

Lunch will be nearby on a “Trabocco”, an old wooden fishing house sitting on stilts at the edge of the sea. Fishing at this pop-up restaurant is done right off the side of the structure without the use of boats: taking advantage of the rocky coastline, casting the nets out to sea through a system of huge wooden arms. A Trabocco lunch is a super special treat that happens only in this part of Italy!

Afternoon

Back to Termoli. After some rest, venture five meters under the surface of Termoli in a relatively new local attraction: Termoli Underground. The itinerary winds through several rooms dating back to the medieval period and then repurposed over the centuries, including the defensive tower of the Bishop’s Palace. Damaged in the terrible earthquake of 1456, it ended up as a cistern. The adjoining Cathedral preserves the relics of St. Timothy, who was the favored protégé of St. Paul of the New Testament. A skeleton found in the Cathedral’s crypt in 1945 was subsequently proven to be that of St. Timothy – hidden underground by a 13th century bishop during the Saracen raids. Apericena dinner (heavy hors d’oeuvres plus wine) tonight. B,L,D

DAY 5

Altilia Visit + Lunch at La Piana dei Mulini + Dinner

Morning

After breakfast, travel to an important archaeological Roman site  – Altilia – that covers about 30 acres and is surrounded by defensive walls. The layout of the town is clearly visible, including temples to Jupiter and Apollo, forum, basilica, baths and indoor market. Built by Tiberius before he became emperor, most of the town’s walls date from 2BC to 4AD. Most stunning is the horse-shoe shaped theater, surrounded by 18th century houses built of stone. Altilia provides a mesmerizing glimpse into Roman times.

La Piana dei Mulini is the next stop. Originally a watermill, in the early nineteenth century it became a center for the dyeing of wool; and then a hydroelectric plant. Today, La Piana dei Mulini is supervised by the Minister of Cultural and offers a gorgeous place to relax for a meal and a stroll along the Biferno River.

Afternoon

In the afternoon back to Termoli. Free time to rest/explore/shop and have dinner on your own in town. B,L

DAY 6

Fonderia Marinelli  + Cheese Workshop + Farewell Dinner

Morning

After breakfast, head to Agnone village in the mountainous northern realm of Molise. Here you’ll visit the oldest artisan bell foundry of the world, where intricate bells are created and sold worldwide … most notably at the Vatican. Guests find fascinating the nearly1,000-year evolution of this unique production and the emotions that are often triggered by the ringing at the visit’s end.

After the bell foundry, meet an extraordinary family that has been making cheese for 11 generations. Learn about old-world production of mozzarella, burrata and caciocavallo. Agnone is famous in these parts for its high-quality cheese, especially caciocavallo, which is a gourmet version of provolone. Learn how to make “primosale cheese”, ending with a cheese-tasting lunch. Who thought that your Italian holiday would reveal links between cheese and America?! Just wait!

Afternoon

Late afternoon return to Termoli with time to pack, meeting for a final “Ciao Ciao Dinner” this evening. B,L,D

DAY 7 

Breakfast + Check out

After Breakfast, transfer to Rome (city center or FCO airport). Flights out will need to leave AFTER 2PM TODAY. Otherwise, let us help you plan a wonderful holiday extension in Rome or elsewhere! B

A special treat on this trip: Meeting lots of locals!