I’ve visited Italy three times this year, returning to some well-loved places: Puglia, Rome, Amalfi. I loved them again, perhaps more even than on previous visits. But I’ve found myself wanting to dig deeper, to explore places I’ve never seen so that I can share them with you. Today I’d like to talk about Ischia. Insula Major – “Island par excellence”.
With Marianna, my personal guide for the week, after lunch at Taverna Antonio, Ischia Porto
This island that’s less than an hour hydrofoil ride from Naples had always gone under my radar. After discovering neighboring and much more famous Capri, I thought “what else could compare”? But Ischia differs greatly from Capri — over 4 times larger; of volcanic origin (vs Capri which is a piece of rock that separated from the mainland millenia ago), which gifts Ischia with a plethora of healthy hot springs; and much wilder than Capri….in all the right ways. Reasonable prices; sparkling, whitewashed buildings; genuinely welcoming people; terrific food and wine. I’m drawn to both places, but the two really cannot be compared.
My first and most lasting impression of Ischia is the water. I’ve never seen a more beautiful sea. Local guide Marianna @ischiahiking spent nearly a week showing me the water from many different angles. We hiked through vineyards far above it; enjoyed fresh mussels from it with the waves almost lapping at our feet; dined on rabbit stew with her parents far, far above it; boated with a fisherman through it; marveled at it bubbling up in hot springs; and watched in awestruck silence as the sun set behind it. These were memorable days.
Mussels from the sea, eaten by the sea. “Zero kilometer” food. Eden Beach ClubLunch from way up high, near village of St Angelo
Like much of Italy, Ischia is a land marked by colonisers…in this case starting over 2,500 years ago. Greeks trading with Etruscans; then came the Romans who (correctly!) identified the volcanic soil as perfect for grape growing. Interestingly, records show that the Romans traded Ischia for Capri in 6 A.D. due to unease with its level of volcanic activity. Today the imposing Mt Epomeo forms the island’s highest point and appears thankfully to be dormant. The centuries that followed Roman occupation witnessed raid after raid from a series of barbarians and power-hungry monarchs, and the control of the island changed hands innumerable times. Ischia’s golden age started in the 1950s, with the arrival of the film industry. Transformed from a sleepy culture based on agriculture and fishing into a chic holiday destinations for celebrities from around the globe, Ischia enjoy a boom of hotel building, film shooting, and glamorous parties. However, it never caught up with Capri’s posh exclusivity, and the feel of the Ischia today is exquisitely authentic and slow.
Headed toward the Aragonese Castle
A number of watch towers scattered all about as well as the Aragonese Castle are the main testimonies to the island’s turbulent past. A former monastery below the castle now hosts a tiny hotel where writers, artists, and those seeking rejuvenation sleep in monk’s cells, wander through or soak up sun in the luscious gardens, and dine on exquisite local food. Rigorously local. And the wine on Ischia? Primo. Grapes you’ve never heard of, grown in a crazily heroic way.
gardens, sunbeds, sea ….… and food that stays in your memory.
There are uniquely alluring accommodations to suit all tastes and budgets on Ischia. Here are Marianna and I sitting on the terrace of one of my favorites: simple; perfect. Simply perfect. Come there with me next year?
Adagio is already working on custom itineraries in Ischia, and planning to offer a small-group trip there next year as well. Get ready to LIVE WILD!
In late September of this year, a friend and I flew to Lisbon and rented a car. We traveled south to a place neither of us had visited; in fact, we’d barely heard of it.
For those who know Adagio well, the fact that I fell for the Alentejo region of Portugal will come as no surprise. Barely discovered. Spontaneous hospitality. Wide-open spaces. History and culture. Surprisingly tasty food and wine. REALLY kind people; but not too many people! I fell in love!
In Portuguese, the name Alentejo means “beyond (além) the Tagus river” (Tejo). We reached our destination after a two-hour drive from the Lisbon airport. Plus some getting lost time. Throw out Google Maps and call wherever you’re headed in this less-developed part of Portugal unless you’re good with taking the scenic route!
Forbes calls Alentejo “Portugal’s Secret”, stating: “Moors, Romans, Carthaginians and other great civilizations have been drawn to its natural beauty. It retains a distinct dialect; unique countryside and flora; a slower pace of life; and kind, welcoming people.” We wanted to understand why.
Sleeps on the Alentejo sojourn were at Herdade do Sobroso “Luxury Boutique Wine Hotel”. “Herdade” in Portuguese means “large estate”, and this one delivered in spades. Almost 4,000 acres of vineyards; grazing land for wild boar, deer, and mouflon; hilly forests; all nourished by the largest artificial lake in Europe, which is right next door.
View from our room at Herdade do Sobroso
Our junior suite was tastefully decorated with traditional furniture, fabrics and accessories. The bed was very comfy and the bathroom extra spacious and modern. We looked out over rolling hills and an infinity pool, with the sunrise visible from the bedroom and the sunset from the other side. Dinners and breakfasts were super fresh and tasty; we tried one of the most renowned regional dishes: Carne de Porco a Alentejana (pork and clam stew) to satisfy lovers of both meat and seafood.
Loved having a bottle of Sobroso’s Riserva red wine greeting us in our room! In fact, turns out Alentejo is one of Portugal’s finest wine regions. We ventured out on our first full day to nearby Quinta do Quetzal. Hiding inside the winery’s sleek buildings were a gorgeous boutique and tasting room, and one of our best meals of the trip (see octopus photo above). I’ve never had more delicious or more beautifully presented octopus! Paired perfectly with their vino. Heaven. Yes, we brought a few bottles with us!
After lunch we daringly took a drive on dirt roads through the cork forest next door. Two-thirds of the world’s cork comes from this region, and any visit here has to include a lesson on how that came to be, how the process works, and the future of cork. We had to turn back, by the way. Roads here have a way of … well, not being ideal for a lightweight rental vehicle! We finished the afternoon visiting some Roman ruins – they had a huge influence here – before heading back to Sobroso.
We never could have guessed what awaited us at the estate. Friendly hotel manager Julio bundled us into his 4WD vehicle and off we went on a wildlife safari! My favorite photo may have been this deer:
We realized at the end why Julio picked up the safari pace – check out the sunset picnic his team had prepared just for us!
The day could not have ended better!
We’ll have to return to Sobroso for more of the luxury experiences – a massage or yoga by the lake; hot air balloon ride; or maybe star gazing. On this trip, we moved on to explore other Alentejo wonders over the next couple of days – Monsaraz (a white-washed medieval hilltown), Evora (a World Heritage Site with a Roman temple smack in the middle of town) – and cannot wait to return for more of the magic!
Enjoy these thoughts from our friend and talented trip designer Michela Carbonari, focusing on women’s travel in a brand new region of Italy (at least for Americans), called “Le Marche”.
First of all, it’s an honor to have this invitation from Claudia. We’ve known each other since 2015 and in addition to the collaboration in work, we have created an increasingly strong bond of trust, friendship and closeness. I admire her ability to listen, to get immediately to the heart of each theme, to be so curious about life, always proactive and above all to transmit always a part of herself, of her humanity and her femininity.
Femininity
On this last point, consider the photo below and what you can discover in it:
I’m on the left, last autumn in Urbino, Italy’s ideal Renaissance court, Unesco Heritage Site, birthplace of artist Raphael … and much more. My partner Giulia and I were there seeking new challenges to live this gem in new ways. With Claudia and Adagio, we are almost ready to present our new trip that will include these fresh experiences!
Michela and Giulia in Renaissance Urbino
My excitement and happiness are evident when I research new experiences, meeting with both current and new suppliers — seeing how they express themselves, what they propose and their ideas for the future. I don’t work with a lot of suppliers, but with a few, well-selected ones, so that I can know how they work and live, and establish a long-lasting working relationship and trust. Being able to face them naturally and sincerely is very important. Especially in this kind of job. When I propose and sell a new product or an experience I always have to be able to transmit what I feel about it.
And I am not alone, this is another important point: sharing outings with Giulia, my business partner, is important. I need to share what I see and feel. I need to gauge the reactions of those who work with me and grow with me. Especially because our work is very personalized, created each time with new nuances, small additions, descriptions that live. Never static.
Fresh beginnings
The world of women is our world and just now we are thrilled to present our new product: our dream has come true! Over the years we’ve created many programs for curious female travelers looking for unique female experiences. But “thanks” to this long and difficult year in which sales completely stopped … we have had the chance to think seriously about creating a product dedicated to the female world. These trips will place value on the need that women have to spend time with other women, best friends, sisters, co-workers, who together will live unique experiences, live trips that they will carry in their hearts forever. You cannot imagine the feelings, the discoveries, the laughter, the naturalness, the harmony, the well-being, new goals and projects… that arise from trips experienced by women only. It’s not the same thing as traveling with your family or dad or co-workers!
Tenuta Cocci Grifoni Winery (owned and managed by women); photo by Leonardo Marconi
Face-to-face
I think it’s no coincidence that most of our clients, CEOs or owners of companies, wineries, farms, or hotels, are women. In front of a table of women or one-on-one, tasting a coffee, admiring a fascinating panorama (like the one above — one of our local favorites that will be part of our trip created with Adagio Travel), we can always find new ideas, innovative solutions to problems. The open-mindedness that we have in front of life and therefore the curiosity to discover the beauty of a destination with the eyes and the heart of a woman: this is what Giulia and I want to nurture in our women clients!
We live in and love Italy, a small but unique destination full of incredible diversity, not only geographically but on so many levels. It may seem strange to hear us speaking about regions of Italy (of which there are in fact, TWENTY!). We are obliged to speak about regions and not Italy as a single country because of the deep impact upon its history, religion, culture, etc due to invasions (from the Arabs, the Spanish, Normans, Austrians…and of course the Romans, still so present along the whole peninsula). Each region is so clearly different and each aspect of them is a world unto itself. The example of food comes to mind most prominently. And to know the uniqueness of a region or even city or village you ALWAYS have to get in touch with locals. Claudia knows this point very well and incorporates it in all her trips!
Summer in Senigallia: Michela and Giulia on the seaside last summer
Come to my region: Le Marche
With Claudia I have understood the value to present Italy in its most authentic, genuine, real, original and unique way. This is our challenge.
I am very proud to say that I live, work and am specialized in this small and still unknown part of Italy, Le Marche, which has so much to reveal. We are sure that when you come here (even though it’s a litte more remote than the more popular regions), you will add many more WOWs to your “Italian experiences”!
This is my welcome to Italy to all of you, especially after this long period of “staycation” where we have read, studied, written, cooked at home a lot…maybe too much… but have never stopped dreaming and traveling with our smiles and our hearts.
Breakfast with Deruta ceramics, including a Raffaelesque coffee cup
Enjoy this guest blog from Liz Brewster, our go-to guide in Rome.
I admit it. I am a ceramics fanatic. I love using beautiful, colorful, hand-painted cups, bowls and dishes for meals — pretty much every day, not just for special occasions. Beautiful objects lift my spirits.
Fortunately, I live in Italy where the culture of artisan craftsmanship is alive and well and has been going strong for centuries. I have many favorite ceramics workshops throughout the peninsula that never fail to delight me when I visit. There is one town that I visit more often, that has a special place in my heart…
This is what happens countless times: The spark may start during a meal when friends are over for dinner. Comments like “Where did you get that platter? I love your salad bowl, cup, saucer etc.” creep into the conversation. By the time we’re eating dessert, we’re planning a road trip… This is what happens when like-minded friends visit me from the States and needle me for ideas for something “special” to take home. The Deruta road trip to buy maiolica (hand-painted earthenware pottery) has become an institution for me.
From Rome through Umbria to Deruta
Deruta is a small, medieval walled town perched on a hill about 7 miles from its more well-known big sister city, Perugia. If I lived in the 1500’s I could find Deruta by following the banks of the Tiber River on horseback from Rome. Today it’s a comfortable 2-hour drive on the autostrada (highway) and superstrada (state road) through the green rolling hills of Umbria to get there. It’s easy to see the turnoff is approaching because of the uninterrupted series of small factories, workshops and showrooms of artistic ceramics. About 9,500 people live in Deruta and every family has at least one member who works with ceramics. The town lives and breathes artistic maiolica; it’s everywhere you look. The street signs, bar tables, shop signs and even the benches in the town park are made of hand-painted ceramics. The Regional Ceramics Museum, housed in the convent of the main church of the town (San Francesco), is a good place to see gorgeous examples of the 500+ years of Deruta’s best maiolica production.
Many of the maiolica workshops and factories have been family-owned for generations. When you walk in to browse the exposition areas, you may see workrooms tucked away in the back or on the floor above. If you are curious and ask, usually you will be welcomed with a smile to look in on the production. With a little luck, you might watch a tornatore (pottery shaper) “throw” a vase on the potters’ wheel or see a master craftsman painting a design onto the pottery’s surface using fine-tipped paint brushes and colored mineral-based pigments. The ultimate luxury is being able to order your own custom maiolica pieces, just as the nobility did in the renaissance period. If you can forgo bringing your purchases with you and can wait for your order to be made, international shipping is no problem. In fact, the Derutesi craftsmen export the greater part of their artistic maiolica internationally; Japan, Germany, and the US are some of the principal importers.
Three espresso cups and a geometric saucer.
Learn more with Liz
What are my favorite Deruta designs? I like the “raphaelesque”, which has been a popular design since the Renaissance. I also love the super-rich colored “geometrico” or geometric, also very traditional, but with a bit of contemporary interpretation.
Liz Brewster is an American architect, tour guide and lecturer and has lived in Rome and collected Italian maiolica for 30 + years.
Her current “virtual tour” online through Context Travel is titled “A Ceramic Lover’s Journey through Italy”; there is one scheduled for this Sunday March 28 at 1:00 pm Eastern Standard Time. You can sign up here: A Ceramics Journey with Liz. Enter the word “Adagio” in the box on the checkout page to thank us for sending you!
My name is Emanuela, but you can call me simply Manu! I’m a tourist guide and tour manager specialized in some of Northern Italy’s beautiful regions. I’m based in Turin (Torino-Piemonte) and also frequently commute to other cities such as Milan, Aosta, Alba, Asti, etc where I take my guests to let them feel the Italian beauty, culture and lifestyle. The keyword to my visits is no doubt …adagio, gently, like a musical movement in slow time. This absolutely does NOT mean inefficiency or lack of professionalism. On the contrary, it is a way of enjoying the places we visit without rushing or missing the real spirit of travelling.
Anita Garibaldi
Who is Anita?
To all women (and men, of course!) I’d like to tell you today the story of a brave and strong woman. She was not in any way familiar with the adverb adagio as she was devoted to obstinacy, strength and courage. I’m referring to Anita Garibaldi (1821-1849), the Brazilian wife and comrade in arms of the Italian hero General Giuseppe Garibaldi. Anita, no doubt, contributed to the unification process of Italy. Two days ago we celebrated 160 years since Unity was proclaimed when Turin was declared the capital of the newly-born nation.
Anita’s statue, on Rome’s Janiculum Hill
Anita’s Story
From poor origins, a very young Anita met General Garibaldi when he left Italy to fight in Brazil, Uruguay, and northern Argentina. Driven by her shared revolutionary ideals and the notion of freedom, Anita joined Garibaldi and fought for years at the side of her lover. They were married in 1842 in Montevideo, Uruguay. Later, Anita accompanied Garibaldi and his red-shirted legionnaires back to Italy where he fought against the forces of the Austrian Empire. She then fled from French and Austrian troops with the Garibaldian Legion. Pregnant and sick, she died in 1849 at the age of 28 near Ravenna.
Years later when Garibaldi rode out to Teano (about 40 miles north of Naples) to hail Victor Emanuel II as king of a united Italy, he wore Anita’s striped scarf over his gray South American poncho. When visiting Rome go to the Janiculum Hill where you’ll find the statue depicting Anita mounted on a rearing horse, holding her baby son close in her left arm while brandishing a pistol in her right hand, as she leads her husband’s army to victory!
So you are talking about planning a trip this year ~ let’s be real we have all been dreaming of traveling since last March! There is a lot to consider when preparing for your trip now that we are living in a world of mask wearing and social distancing. Now many people who feel ready to travel, are looking for ways to take a trip and do so in a safe way ~ even if they are staying domestic. Keep reading for the top 5 things to do before traveling in 2021! Do Your Research Research the destination you would like to go to ~ make sure there aren’t any major travel advisories against traveling to that specific destination. Check US State Department website for detailed information worldwide, check individual state requirements for domestic travel. Check to see if there are testing requirements or if there are government mandated quarantine restrictions, even states like New York have mandatory forms, testing and quarantine requirements for visitors and returning residents. Get Advice from a Trusted Travel Advisor The uncertainty of traveling can be overwhelming when weighing your options (which is why having a trusted travel advisor is so important!). Your travel advisor can provide insights on where to go, what to consider before leaving home, and what to do if the unexpected happens. Know Where To Find Local Testing Facilities This is especially important now with the new CDC guidelines ~ to travel abroad most locations are requiring a negative Covid-19 test to enter another country, you also must have a negative test to exit the country and enter into the US. Luckily, many resorts have started offering on-site Covid-19 testing for travelers staying at their property, to help with return-trip testing. Mexico has also added Covid-19 testing facilities in many of their airports, at affordable costs! Make A Plan Have a plan in place if you or a travel companion were to fall ill or are injured. If you do test positive for Covid-19 then what? First off, make sure you know what happens, many Caribbean Islands are simply asking travelers to isolate if they test positive for Covid-19, but some may have other protocols. Many hotels have created packages at a lower cost to assist with isolating. Most travel insurance will cover “trip interruption” and rebooking expenses, and many offer Covid-specific coverage. Monitor your symptoms while you isolate and make note of how you feel. If your condition gets worse and you need to seek medical care, go to a hospital. Look up local clinics and hospitals that are near where you will be staying beforehand. Make copies of your passport, ID, and health insurance card and keep them on hand. It’s always best to plan for the worst and hope for the best!
Transfer to Medjet flight back to the US after sickness or injury
Purchase Travel Insurance and a Medjet Membership An equally important part of the travel planning process is to consider what to do in the worst-case scenario. What happens if you are injured or fall ill while traveling? Purchasing travel insurance in addition to a Medjet membership before departing on your trip is very important, especially in the ever-changing travel climate. While many locations have adequate hospitals, many have limited ICU beds, and most people do not want to be treated in a hospital far from home, or even a couple states away. Some locations actually require medical evacuation coverage to make sure a traveler in need of an ICU bed can be moved to the ‘nearest appropriate’ hospital to handle treatment, but most travel insurance medical evacuation coverage only gets you to the nearby hospital. Not necessarily home. That’s what membership programs like Medjet do. Medjet gets you back to the doctors you know and trust, regardless of medical necessity. Medjet also offers hospital to hospital Covid-19 transport to their members if they are hospitalized due to Covid-19 while traveling in the US, Canada, Mexico, Costa Rica or the Caribbean Islands. You can read more on Medjet Covid-19 coverage here. Travel safely … and don’t leave home without your Medjet membership.
Another Italian village is selling homes for €1, bringing us that little bit closer to la dolce vita.
Since the beginning of 2018, towns and villages across Italy have signed up to the One Euro House scheme, whereby empty houses are put up for auction from €1 in a bid to attract new residents to rural areas suffering from depopulation. The latest village to join the program is Castropignano, a hilltop medieval village in the southern region of Molise — known for its pristine beaches, snowcapped mountains, coastal towns, sweeping vineyards and traditional hilltop villages. Plus, one of our favorite Adriatic seaside towns: Termoli.
What it’s like to buy a €1 Italian home
Officials in Castropignano recently announced they are giving away abandoned homes in the village “free of charge” or for a nominal fee of €1. However, instead of giving a home to the highest bidder, mayor Nicola Scapillati said he wants to match potential buyers with a property that suits their interests.
“I welcome anyone who would like to purchase a new home here to email me directly with a detailed plan of how they intend to restyle and what they would like to do with the property – make it a home, B&B, store or artisan shop,” Scapillati told CNN, adding: “They should also list any requirements they may have, like access for people in wheelchairs. The village is tiny and cars can’t navigate the narrow alleys and steps.”
“We’ve got nothing grand to offer except peacefulness, silence, pristine nature, oxygen-rich air, great views and fantastic food, ideal to detox from the daily stress,” he added.
The homes on offer are run-down buildings in need of major renovations. Whoever buys a house has to sign a policy of €2000 ($2378, £1794) with a two-year guarantee. If all goes well, that money will be refunded at the end of the renovation term. To apply, email nicola.scapillati@me.com to express your interest, and share your plans for your Italian home.
This blog is a tribute to Carlo. A renowned radiologist in Central Italy, Dr Carlo Amodio lost his life to Covid-19 at age 71 in early April 2020. He continued to faithfully serve his patients to the end. His daughter Michela Carbonari is an Adagio friend and creator of beautiful, slow travel programs in the Marche region of Italy.
A dear friend of Carlo wrote the poem below on June 1, 2020. That would have been his 72nd birthday. The translation is my own. For correct viewing, please be sure you do NOT view this blog in Google translate(which removes the Italian poem entirely).
Dr. Carlo Amodio, renowned radiologist in the Marche region of Italy
Addio Carlo Goodbye Carlo
Sei volato su nuvole bianche, You’ve flown away on white clouds
in una giornata di sole d’aprile, on a sunny April day
nella primavera che amavi. In the springtime that you so loved.
Sei andato via lasciando You went away leaving
semplici ricordi, simple memories
senza parole, without words
che a volte non servono, which sometimes aren’t worth a thing.
ma manca la tua voce festosa. I miss your merry voice.
È quasi arrivata l’estate, Summer’s almost here,
potevamo dire la nostra e we could have had our say and
ridere di tanti fatti, laughed at many facts,
ascoltare una diagnosi interpreted a diagnosis
perché ciò ti piaceva, because you liked that,
un esame con strumenti an examination with the
da collezione, a volte latest instruments, sometimes with
con risposte infauste, ominous outcomes that you
che spiegavi con occhi tristi, explained with sad, sincere eyes.
sinceri, avresti detto la tua You would have had your say
su questo malanno perché about this disease because
i mali estremi li guardavi negli you looked extreme illnesses
occhi! right in the eye! We would have
Avremmo voluto dirti come stai? wanted to say “how are you”?
Avremmo voluto dirti forza amico! We would have wanted to say
“strength, our friend”!
Ripercorrere con te gli ultimi Retrace with you the final
giorni, il miracolo della consolazione, days, the miracle of consolation,
davanti all’addio. before the final departure.
Ora il nostro saluto è stato Now our goodbye is huge
grande perché ricambia because it shines with
la generosità operosa della the living generosity of
tua vita, se avessimo potuto your life; if we could have,
saremmo stati in tanti a there would have been so many of
stringere la tua mano. us to hold your hand.
Poet Antonino Barrasso, Fano, Italy — June 1, 2020
You may or may not be aware, but Croatia has opened its borders to many more travelers than the rest of the European Union. Including US citizens. That’s right, subject to some restrictions, we are free to vacation in this amazing country!
Enjoy below a photographic journey through a few distinct destinations with our friend, Croatian partner, and advocate of sustainable travel, Robert Bralić.
Split, Egyptian sphynx on Peristyle Square (Diocletian’s Palace)
Above and top of the page, Split. The lead photo is Marshall Auguste Marmont Street. The next two photos below are from the island of Hvar, just a short ride from Split by ferry or private vessel.
Hvar, Olive tree in Brusje villageHvar, the village of Velo Grablje with Paklinski islands in the distance
Traveling north: Istria
Continuing north, we reach Istria. Mysterious and beautiful, especially now. Enjoy this virtual feast!
Above and below: Istria, hilltown of GrožnjanIstria, Motovun surroundings from top of medieval town wallsAbove and below, seaside town of Rovinj, Istria
Pasta alla Norcina is a traditional Italian pasta dish hailing from the Umbrian town of Norcia. The dish is made with short pasta such as penne or rigatoni, crumbled Norcia sausage, onions, white wine, cream, and a generous amount of grated pecorino.
There are some versions that also use black truffles, long pasta such as spaghetti or tagliatelle, and occasionally wild mushrooms. Norcia is famous for its truffles and pork products, so it’s no wonder they make use of those ingredients in their specialty dishes.
Perfect with a fresh green salad on the side.
Second course: Porchetta
The amazing roast been hugely popular in central Italy for more than 2,000 years. Back in the day the Emperor Nero was said to enjoy it and Roman Army cooks fed it to soldiers in camp. It’s usually prepared by roasting a whole pig, although you can also roast just shoulder or loin cuts. Rather than preparing it at home, Italians today most often enjoy porchetta sold by street vendors and at festivals, where it’s served on bread. It’s a mystery that porchetta hasn’t become a favorite in the US! If you have time on your hands this summer, here is a 5-star porchetta recipe to try.
Porchetta!
The traditional preparation is always the same: the pig is gutted, carefully trimmed, and washed. The belly is then filled with the chosen stuffing, generously salted, rolled up and roasted until the crackling is golden, hard, and crunchy. The Umbrian version is stuffed with the pig’s chopped entrails mixed with lard, garlic, salt, pepper, and wild fennel. The meat is then rolled, spitted, and roasted in a wood oven. Thinly sliced and served between slices of homemade bread, porchetta is one of the richest, most delicious foods you can try in Umbria, available both as a quick treat bought from food-trucks at markets or fairs, or served as a rich second course in local restaurants.
And to wrap up: Brustengolo
Brustengolo is an old rustic dessert that originated in rural areas of Perugia. It is made with cornmeal, a staple ingredient in the region, which is combined with water and sugar, while the most typical additions include apples, raisins, pine nuts, lemon zest, olive oil, anise seeds, an anise-flavored liqueur, and walnuts.
The mixture is then baked in the oven, usually in a round pan. The dish is enjoyed as a dessert, but it can also make a nutritious snack. We don’t know when brustengolo originally appeared, but it was surely invented as a poor man’s dish that made use of the available regional ingredients.
Nowadays, it is made in several local variations across Umbria, and though it was initially an autumnal dessert, it can be enjoyed as a year-round treat.
UMBRIA FOOD & WINE TASTING
So there you have it, an entire meal! primo (pasta alla norcina), secondo (porchetta) and dolce (brustengolo). We can organize many food and wine experiences in Umbria. Examples:
Carini Winery is found between the slopes of Mount Tezio and Lake Trasimeno, an area traditionally recognized as being super suitable for the cultivation of grapes and olives. Here you can spend the morning exploring the estate on horseback, then belly up to the bar to taste their organic wines and EVOO (both organic) paired with bread cooked under ashes and exquisite cured meats made from their farm-raised Suffolk sheep.
Prosciutto made from Suffolk sheep
Moving toward Orvieto we find Cantina Lapone. On arrival you’ll be welcomed by Piero or Ramona, who will introduce you to the rich wine-making heritage of this area. You’ll be able to walk among the vines, feel the soils in which they grow and at the right time of year, even taste the grapes. From the vineyard you’ll move to the cellar where you’ll learn how the wines are an expression of this amazing terroir. You’ll sample both red and white wines, together with a selection of locally made breads, cheeses and artisanal salumi.