Italian Ischia – the “Island par excellence”

Claudia Harris·June 23, 2024·36 comments

I’ve visited Italy three times this year, returning to some well-loved places: Puglia, Rome, Amalfi. I loved them again, perhaps more even than on previous visits. But I’ve found myself wanting to dig deeper, to explore places I’ve never seen so that I can share them with you. Today I’d like to talk about Ischia. Insula Major – “Island par excellence”.

With Marianna, my personal guide for the week,
after lunch at Taverna Antonio, Ischia Porto

This island that’s less than an hour hydrofoil ride from Naples had always gone under my radar. After discovering neighboring and much more famous Capri, I thought “what else could compare”? But Ischia differs greatly from Capri — over 4 times larger; of volcanic origin (vs Capri which is a piece of rock that separated from the mainland millenia ago), which gifts Ischia with a plethora of healthy hot springs; and much wilder than Capri….in all the right ways. Reasonable prices; sparkling, whitewashed buildings; genuinely welcoming people; terrific food and wine. I’m drawn to both places, but the two really cannot be compared.

View of Ischia town from the Aragonese Castle

My first and most lasting impression of Ischia is the water. I’ve never seen a more beautiful sea. Local guide Marianna @ischiahiking spent nearly a week showing me the water from many different angles. We hiked through vineyards far above it; enjoyed fresh mussels from it with the waves almost lapping at our feet; dined on rabbit stew with her parents far, far above it; boated with a fisherman through it; marveled at it bubbling up in hot springs; and watched in awestruck silence as the sun set behind it. These were memorable days.

Chiesa del Soccorso, town of Forio, Ischia
Mussels from the sea, eaten by the sea. “Zero kilometer” food. Eden Beach Club
Lunch from way up high, near village of St Angelo

Like much of Italy, Ischia is a land marked by colonisers…in this case starting over 2,500 years ago. Greeks trading with Etruscans; then came the Romans who (correctly!) identified the volcanic soil as perfect for grape growing. Interestingly, records show that the Romans traded Ischia for Capri in 6 A.D. due to unease with its level of volcanic activity. Today the imposing Mt Epomeo forms the island’s highest point and appears thankfully to be dormant. The centuries that followed Roman occupation witnessed raid after raid from a series of barbarians and power-hungry monarchs, and the control of the island changed hands innumerable times. Ischia’s golden age started in the 1950s, with the arrival of the film industry. Transformed from a sleepy culture based on agriculture and fishing into a chic holiday destinations for celebrities from around the globe, Ischia enjoy a boom of hotel building, film shooting, and glamorous parties. However, it never caught up with Capri’s posh exclusivity, and the feel of the Ischia today is exquisitely authentic and slow.

Headed toward the Aragonese Castle

A number of watch towers scattered all about as well as the Aragonese Castle are the main testimonies to the island’s turbulent past. A former monastery below the castle now hosts a tiny hotel where writers, artists, and those seeking rejuvenation sleep in monk’s cells, wander through or soak up sun in the luscious gardens, and dine on exquisite local food. Rigorously local. And the wine on Ischia? Primo. Grapes you’ve never heard of, grown in a crazily heroic way.

gardens, sunbeds, sea ….
… and food that stays in your memory.

There are uniquely alluring accommodations to suit all tastes and budgets on Ischia. Here are Marianna and I sitting on the terrace of one of my favorites: simple; perfect. Simply perfect. Come there with me next year?

Adagio is already working on custom itineraries in Ischia, and planning to offer a small-group trip there next year as well. Get ready to LIVE WILD!

Claudia Harris

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