June 8, 2015
I’ve just completed the 2015 Amazing Amalfi trips. While these weeks are always a series of highlights, this year for me the hike on the Sentieri dei Fortini (“Path of Forts”) on the Isle of Capri was without equal. You can begin the walk, which extends 4-5 km depending where you start and finish, either from the Punta Carena Lighthouse (southwesternmost point on the island) or from the Blue Grotto (northwesternmost point). Both places can be reached by frequent public buses from Anacapri; there are stops that will cut off a bit of the hike as well which you might want to consider. I took the “Lighthouse” bus and got off at the Pino stop, named after the Pino Fort which is a steep 5-minute walk downhill from the bus stop. The Sentiero dei Fortini trail spans the entire western coast of Capri, passing by the remains of three small forts that were originally built to defend Anacapri from the Saracens, then reinforced by the British in 1806 and successively enlarged by the French after they took the island at Fort Orrico in 1808. The picture above gives you a great idea of the splendors seen along the way as well as the actual trail itself. This is a deceptively rigorous hike (allow 3-4 hours to enjoy the walk properly) with lots of ups and downs, stairs, and potentially dangerous portions (sheer drops to the sea with no guard rail). However, the views are absolutely stunning and the trail condition is excellent due to its restoration in 1998 with the use of EU funds. All along the way are handmade ceramic tiles detailing (in English and Italian, with charming drawings accompanying) the flora and fauna of the island as well as the historical events that have occurred here. There are a couple of sunning and swimming areas along the path that are only accessible on foot or by boat. These would make an ideal get-away for anyone who’s had enough of the glitzy glamour and crowds of Capri Town! Oh, and some great eats await you at the end. There are both glam and easy-going options close to the Blue Grotto, but away from those horrendous crowds.